Sorpotel – a dish that runs in (your) blood
Sorpotel – a dish that runs in (your) blood
Kill a pig in Goa and from nose to tail, not a piece gets wasted. While prime cuts of meat go to make vindaloo, sorpotel was a result of left overs, turning blood and offal into a delicacy that graces every table and every occasion in Goa.
The word ‘sarapatel’ literally means confusion, referring to the mish-mash of ingredients which include pork meat and offal which includes heart, liver, tongue and in original recipes, even pork blood. The vinegar is vital to sorpotel, not just for its taste but also for prolonging its life, improving it each day it marinates.
Made by African slaves in the Bahian province of Brazil, it was made from offal that the slaves masters discarded. The dish had tail, intestine, tongue, ears and blood. To this the Bahian’s added onions, tomatoes, and chilli peppers. Sorpotel was especially popular with Portuguese sailors travelling between Lisbon and Goa because the wine actually made the dish better with age. Some also claim that what came to India was the version popular from Alentejo region of Portugal to which spices and toddy vinegar were added in Goa, transforming sarapatel to the sorpotel of today.
If someone tells you that they did not really like your version of sorpotel, don’t be offended. No two households make the same version of the dish and every Goan, Mangalorean or East Indian has their own claim to fame in making the best sorpotel in the world.
Recently I was invited to my dear friend Nirmala D’Mello’s home in Mahim, Mumbai. Her son Aaron, who was all of two feet when I was in the parish was now read to embark on a new chapter in his life in the United Kingdom. This was a farewell lunch. The star of the table at lunch that day was the late Marie Antoinette’s sorpotel. True to her name she was a queen but to those who had the privilege of meeting her, she was just every welcoming Antoinette. On this occasion her son Sheldon was present too and I pressed Nirmala and Sheldon to share the recipe with me. This article is a tribute to a ‘queen’ who made you feel like a king.
As I have said before, while hell may provide you with fire, heaven has no kitchen. So leave your trade secrets and recipes here on earth before you go. I will be happy to publish them in memory of someone you love.
Marie Antoinette’s version of a killer Sorpotel ( this recipe has only pork and no offal)
Take 1 kg pork. Add 1 level table spoon salt, and 1 tsp haldi (turmeric)powder. Boil for 4 minutes in a pressure cooker and after the first whistle turn off the gas. Let it rest and cool completely.
Grind in 1 ½ cup vinegar, 20-25 red Kashmiri chillies, 14 cloves, 1 cinnamon, 1 tea spoon pepper corns. 1 tsp jeera (cumin seeds), ½ tsp haldi (turmeric), ½ pod garlic and 1/4” ginger. Set this aside.
Cut the port into small dices. Cutting the pork is an art form and half the size of the nail of your little finger would be a good measure. In a vessel fry the cut pork in batches and set each batch aside. In the same vessel, using the fat of the fried pork, add 3 onions chopped finely and cook till translucent. Add 5 slit green chillies, 1/2″ finely chopped ginger and 1 whole pod of finely cut garlic. Stir and cook this well. Now add ground masala and the cut pork pieces. Stir this all well for a about three minutes on medium head. Cook till done. Add ( or keep adding) a little water at a time to the sorpotel while cooking. You need a gravy with a very thick consistency. When done, cool and then store in the fridge. If you are in no hurry to eat it you could undercook the meat a bit, cool and store it in the refrigerator, take it out every day for a week and heat it checking for vinegar and salt. Remember to cool it down completely before you refrigerate it again. Because the meat was fried it wont disintegrate or over cook even if you reheat it several times.
Elizabeth Fernandes’ version of a south Goa Rechado
Rechado is a red chilli based paste that is used in fried fish preparations. The Portuguese word ‘rechado’ simply means ‘stuffed’. Rechado is best stuffed in round oily fish like mackerels or even flat fish like the local pomfret or simply used to coat fish steaks before coating them in semolina or simply frying it as it. Recently I added deep fried curry leaves to the rechado while stuffing the mackerels; it was like eating a Goan ‘bangda fry’ with distinct Kerala flavour.
Central to this dish is the red Kashmiri chilli and the goa vinegar. When the Portuguese cooks arrived in India, they realised that the Indians did not make vinegar. Some ingenious Franciscan priests are said to have solved the problem by manufacturing vinegar from coconut toddy, an alcoholic drink fermented from the sap of the palm tree.
Thanks to the many Portuguese ports and trading routes, locals in Portuguese India were introduced to ingredients from across the globe that are now synonymous with Indian cooking such as chillies which arrived in the 1500’s along with potatoes, maize and tomatoes. Prior to this long pepper which grew abundantly in the forests of the Western Ghats and Malabar had been the hottest spice known to Indians.
I received a bottle of rechado, which when i sampled raw almost tasted like a great pickle. I had to arm twist the precise recipe as I was first given rough estimates of the ingredients. This recipe has much more tamarind and less vinegar and the sugar adds a wonderful sweetness to balance the hot chillies.
The original recipe belonged to Elizabeth Fernandes who passed less than a year ago; she was an amazing cook even in her late 70’s. Her daughter Effie Menezes made this masala and gifted it to me while on a recent trip to Goa. I had to wrangle the recipe from her brother Gordon Fernandes who is my parishioner and a dear friend and who I must quote said, ” I did not break my head for my board exams the way I broke it for this recipe.
Finally, Do not take great food recipes to your grave. We need to keep our culture alive and selfishness does not promote food culture. Please SHARE YOUR recipes with me on +91 9820242151Let me know what you think of this.
INGREDIENTS
20 red dry chillies
I cup vinegar
a ball of tamarind (laddoo size)
2 pod garlic
1/2 inch ginger
1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
3 cloves
a pinch of jeera (cumin)1 tsp salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 big onion
Grind all the above ingredients in vinegar Including the onion. Cool and refrigerate.
Maharashtrian style mutton curry
Maharashtrian style mutton curry
Though this recipe has several ingredients, I recommend you follow it strictly for the end result is worth it. The dish is for one kilo of mutton.
For the Garam masala (if you wish to make this at home or else use a packet)
Ingredients:
Coriander seeds ¾ tablespoon
Cumin seeds ¾ tablespoon
Black Pepper corns – 1 teaspoon
Cloves – 1 teaspoon
Green cardamom – 10
Black cardamom – 5.
Fennel seeds – ½ tablespoon
Mace – one
Stone flower – one gram
Fox nuts – six
Whole red chillies – 4
Poppy seeds – 1 tablespoon
Kasuri methi – 1 tablespoon
Nutmeg – ¼ grated
Salt – one large pinch
Ingredients for marination
Fresh coriander – half a cup
Garlic – 15 cloves
Green chillies – 3
Ginger – one inch piece
Dry coconut – ¼
Water as required
Mutton – 1 kilo
Salt ½ table spoon
Turmeric powder – ¼ teaspoon
Grind all of the above for marination and use only half of this for marination.
Whisked curd – 150 grams
To make the curry
Ingredients:
Oil – 4 tablespoons
WHOLE SPICES (as below)
Cumin seeds – ¾ teaspoon
Green cardamom – 2
Black Cardamom – one
Cinnamon – one inch piece
Bay leaf – one
Onions – 500 grams minced
For the gravy you will require the remaining ½ of the ground marinade masala
To make the curry you will also need the following powdered spices
Turmeric powder – ¼ teaspoon
Kashmiri red chilli powder – 1 tablespoon
Coriander powder – 1 tablespoon
Garam Masala – 1 tablespoon
Cumin powder – one tablespoon
Hot Water – 100 ml
Kasuri Methi – ½ teaspoon
Chopped fresh coriander
Lemon juice – ½ teaspoon





Fr. Warner D'Souza is a Catholic priest of the Archdiocese of Bombay. He has served in the parishes of St Michael's (Mahim), St Paul's (Dadar East), Our Lady of Mount Carmel, (Bandra), a ten year stint as priest-in-charge at St Jude Church (Malad East) and at present is the Parish Priest at St Stephen's Church (Cumballa Hill). He is also the Director of the Archdiocesan Heritage Museum and is the co-ordinator of the Committee for the Promotion and Preservation of the Artistic and Historic Patrimony of the Church.